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Got a beauty question? Find a stylist's answer here!

Q: How do I know what my skin type really is?
A: Normal skin feels neither dry nor oily. Pores are visible but are not large and are rarely clogged. Normal skin texture is not porcelain-fine nor is it coarse or thick. Dry skin has a thin, papery texture, feels dry to the touch and pores are very fine. Combination skin is usually normal with some areas feeling dry, while others feel oily. Dryness is often localized on the cheeks, while oiliness is in the T-zone (nose, chin and forehead.). The majority of women have combination skin. Oily skin feels very oily. Pores are large and visible and the texture is often coarse or thick. Oily skin types can also be acne-prone. Sensitive skin is skin that is easily irritated. Typical reactions can include itching, burning, chafing, and stinging. Any skin type can be sensitive. It's possible for any skin type to appear drier due to the use of harsh cleansers or drying type products such as scrubs, masks, and acne treatments. Skin may also become drier or oilier due to climate and seasonal changes and can change over time.

Q: There are so many versions of mascara, how do I choose?
A: Darkening only mascaras give you the most natural look, with no heavy mascara build-up. Thickening mascaras are made to increase the diameter of each lash for the most dramatic look. Lengthening mascaras separate and make lashes look longer for a classic look. Water-resistant mascaras generally hold up under tears, but come off during swimming. Waterproof mascaras stay put during swimming, but a make-up remover is recommended for use at the end of your day.

Q: HELP! I wash my face twice a day and I still get zits! Why is this and how can I prevent it?
A: There are several things that could be going on. First, you could be using the wrong products for your skin type. If your skin is dry but you think it's oily because you have breakouts, you could be drying out your skin to the point of making it irritated and reactive. Even if you have oily skin, if you are using products that are overly drying or contain ingredients that you are sensitive to, the problem could be getting worse.
Along the same line, if you are washing too frequently or scrubbing too hard, your skin could get irritated and react with a breakout.
Another possibility is that the products you are using, both skin care and makeup, contain ingredients that aggravate acne. You would be surprised at how many products carrying a "hypo-allergenic," "safe for sensitive skin," "dermatologist tested," or even "non-comedogenic" label have ingredients that can make some people break out.

Q: I'd love to go to a spa, but they're too expensive. Do you have any ideas on how to turn my bathroom into a spa using commonly found items that aren't too expensive?
A: There is a multitude of ways to transform bathtime into a sensual spa experience. I suggest you visit the site selfcare.com. If you search under "bath and body" and "looking your best," type in "whirlpool" under "search." Homedics offers a jet sauna which temporarily attaches to your tub and performs like a whirlpool at the unbeatable price of $25. If you prefer, Sunbeam has a shower massage for approximately the same cost.
Amera products (amera.com) has some tempting, effective products: they offer Satin Finish grapefruit-scented cleansing lotion which sloughs off dead skin cells and renews your body for $10; Sea Bath oils in "Purity" ($6) soften and relax; mineral salts and Sea Bath salts in Serenity, which permeate your skin with magnesium and other elements found in the ocean and natural spas and springs, leave you relaxed and your skin like velvet.
To continue the luxurious spa atmosphere, dim the lights, burn candles (safely!) in your bathroom in a lavender scent (an aroma proven to relax) and place a vinyl, inflatable pillow behind your head. And don't forget to take the phone off the hook and play your favorite mellow music, whether it be R&B, alternative, or classical. You'll emerge a new woman!

Q: For months I have had problems with my nails; they are dry and brittle with ridges, and the skin around my nails is dry and hard. I have tried countless nail/cuticle creams, have practically soaked my hands in Vaseline and covered them overnight with cotton gloves, but nothing is helping. What can I do?
A: Yours is not an easy question to answer, but don't despair, you still have options. Some women have harder, more brittle nails simply due to genetics. Assuming you have no skin diseases, you may want to look "inside" for the answer to this dilemma. Your diet may be lacking in Essential Fatty Acids, also known as the "cosmetic vitamins." EFA's are essential in controlling body oils that keep skin soft, smooth, and youthful. Lecithin, found in egg yolks and some other vegetables, enables the body to absorb essential fatty acids and is itself a rich source of EFA's. Vitamins A and E, along with zinc (a naturally occuring mineral), work together in many body functions, including skin development and maintenance.
Stress and environmental pollutants can contribute to dryness also. Your body requires B vitamins to function properly and will take these from nutrient stores in the hair, skin, and nails if it does not receive its daily requirements through food or supplement sources. The result is dry and brittle hair that breaks easily, as well as severely dry skin around your nails. Since B vitamins leave the body within eight hours, they need to be continually replenished; a combination of biotin, inositol, folic acid, and other substances are needed for vitamins to do their job effectively. Analyze your own diet, making sure you're getting proper nutrients, and then check with your physician and health food store expert about which supplement(s) to purchase, if necessary.
Your skin is most pliable after a bath or shower, so consider soaking your nails in hot oil after you bathe at least three times a week (Avon's "Skin-So-Soft" bath oil is an affordable, effective product). Try a hot paraffin (wax) treatment (at salons, or about $60 from Homedics); it not only is soothing, but when you remove the cooled wax from your hands, you also remove dead skin, leaving behind satiny skin.
The most effective cuticle and nail cremes I've found are Amera mousse ($14) and Sally Hansen's cuticle cremes. Beauty Without Cruelty Green Tea Nourishing Eye Gel (approximately $14.50) is a "powerhouse" of a product; not only can it be applied to the eye area, but the directions suggest using it on severely dry skin on hands, elbows, and feet. I was skeptical of this light gel, but when water beaded on my hydrated skin, I became a believer and continual user.
I was surprised to learn last week that many dermatologists recommend rubbing vegetable oil (such as Crisco) into your skin rather than Vaseline, as it is more easily absorbed. "Seal" the vegetable oil with Vaseline, and put the gloves back on. Much work and not pleasant, I'll admit, but this should help you. One last tip: before you apply nail enamel, cover your nails with a ridge-filling base coat.

Q: Why is it such a bad thing to sleep with your makeup on?
A: Your skin, like you, needs to "breathe." Sleep is when our minds and bodies are rejuvenated. Hair and nails grow more quickly during these hours than at any other time of the day. Your skin needs to be free of products which will simply block your pores and inevitably cause breakouts. Consider this: If a patch to help stop smoking can be absorbed through your skin, then so can your makeup!
Moreover, it is before bed when you should give special attention to thoroughly cleansing your skin from the day's grime and oil build-up and use products which will leave you with a soft, firm, wrinkle-free, luminous complexion in the morning. After cleansing and toning, choose a skin care regimen (or assorted products) which works for you and stay with it. Read the ingredients; items with alpha-hydroxy components (vegetable and fruit acids) will help your own skin to renew itself, ridding itself of dead cells. Thus, you won't awake with clogged pores and troubled skin, but a wide-awake, ready-to-paint "canvas" for the next day.
What can I do to tame the frizziness in my curly hair?
Curly hair that tends to be frizzy is usually starving for moisture. I recommend starting off with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. After towel drying your hair apply a leave in conditioner evenly throughout the hair(you may even want to comb it through if your hair is more on the thick or course side) and then add any moisture based finishing product such as configure by K.M.S. or my favorite, molding mud by Sebastian. I suggest twisting the curls into place and then air drying them, ocassionally scrunching with the hands every so often as it dries. If your hair has more wave than curl and you would like to intensify the curl follow the previous directions and dry by scrunching with a diffuser. Always toss your head upside down to get more volume.



Q:  My hair is always flat in the back, what can I do to get more volume in that area?
A: First of all, although hairproducts can help, your haircut should be doing most of the work for you. You may need a change of style. I recommend a haircut that has graduated layers in the crown area. Layered bobs are a great example. The layers can be worked into longer haircuts also.


Q: My hair is too curly, and I'm having trouble shaping it into a flattering look. Any hints on taming the beast?
A:Your haircut will be the key to this solution, as will the products. Though many curly-haired people are afraid of the dreaded word "layers", when added judiciously, they can more evenly distribute the weight of your hair while still leaving it well shaped and more manageable. Additionally, the use of a good moisture-based styling product with a diffuser can create the in-control appearance you're looking for.


Q: People have always said that I have pretty eyes, so how can I bring attention to them?
A: You are a fortunate woman; great bodies are nice, good skin is a blessing, but gorgeous eyes are unforgettable. So how do you enhance yours?
Since you didn't specify your eye color, there are a few rules of thumb. Makeup artist Bobbi Brown has been quoted as saying that you don't want to "fight" your own eye color or draw attention to your shadow - you want to pull attention to your own shade. Thus, lilac, lavender, and hues of brown (such as camel and taupe) will make blue eyes appear more blue rather than a blue in the same shade as your pupils. Green or hazel eyes follow the principle of "complimentary colors;" pinks, deep mauves, lavenders, rich plums, and eggplant shades will cause the green or hazel to appear more vibrant. Brown eyes are the easiest to complement; any color lighter or darker than your own brown will attract attention to your brown, even tints of brown itself. For standout brown eyes, choose shades in blue, steel blue/gray, plum, and eggplant.
Always begin with a shadow base to hold your color and prevent creasing. Guerlain offers "Protective Base for Eyelids" ($30 and hard to obtain), but Elizabeth Arden, Mary Kay, and Max Factor do the same for less money. For days when you have little time to apply color, smooth a neutral shade from lashes to browbone, such as Revlon's Wet/Dry shadow in "Skinlight" (this also works well as a base shade with other colors) or try Lorac's Taupe or Harmony, a light peach (Lorac's pots of shadow are $15).
This is the season of vivid colors and glitz, so say the fashion magazines. To add some "oomph," play to your heart's content. Try Lorac's "Moonstone" as a base (a softly shimmering beige), and then use a good brush to add Lorac's "Reverie," "Inspiration," or Matrix Eyesilks in "Smoked Topaz" (all gilt, gorgeous hues of brown; Matrix shadows are $10.50 per container). I gravitate toward Profaces brushes; they range in price from $10 to $18, but the precision and control they furnish are well worth the investment. Next, apply a very deep brown in the crease, slightly upward and outward. This "lifts" the eye. For a touch more definition, invest in Lorac's Jewel Box ($37.50 for four glimmering shades of pink, beige, peach, and lavender) and dab a bit in the center of your lid. Philosophy Cosmetics offers "little black books" (also about $37) - available in neutral, supercool, or jewel shades. Like Lorac's Jewel Box, they contain fascinating holographic colors to add a bit of luster, as well as matte shades and an unprecedented color I absolutely love, an intense inky blue called "Creativity," which effortlessly functions as an eyeliner as well as a shadow.
For a totally different look, try Matrix Eyesilks' "Pink Gold" or Lorac's "Pink" or "Lavender Mist" over your entire lid. Experiment by combining such shadows as Lorac's "Dreamy" (a beautiful, lustrous blue-based grey), Matrix's "Afterdark" (the same shade minus the gleem), Profaces blue-based grey ($7.50 per pan), Philosophy's "Creativity," and/or Lorac's true "Sapphire" or "Eggplant" (a deep plum). The key is to blend so well that attention is still drawn to your eye, not your eye makeup. (Profaces offers a chisel-point brush specifically to fluff and blend.) Accent with a hint of a sparkling pink, lavender, or blue in the middle of your lid, and watch how your eye opens. I like many brands of shadows, but I find that Revlon, Dior, Lorac, Matrix, Profaces, and Philosophy are especially soft, blendable, and stay put with minimal creasing.
Liquid eye liners can tend to look harsh. Pencil liners often tug too hard at my eyes, except for Victoria Jackson's in brown and Elizabeth Arden's in "Umber," a smooth yet seductive brown ($14). Most often, I work with some of my deepest eyeshadow as a liner, using a brush with tiny bristles for a fine or slightly smudged look. It is important to remember that liner is meant to frame the eyes. In order to achieve a subtle effect, line as closely to your lashes as possible to give the illusion of thicker lashes. A sponge is helpful to soften and smudge, as well as correct any mistakes. For extra definition, stipple, or dot, the liner between the lashes (careful here if you tend to have dark circles or puffiness under your eyes).
For mascara, Lancome's Definicils mascara in black separates, defines, lengthens, and colors (approximately $16). Rimmel's mascara (surprisingly only around $3 at WalMart exclusively) adds body, length, and color. For a situation when you know you'll be wearing makeup for many hours, be exposed to the elements, or view a sad movie, nothing beats Cover Girl "Marathon" Mascara (also $6 or less). The only item more important than mascara for me is an eyelash curler. If you're not favored with long, spiral lashes, I suggest using one. It goes a long way toward creating the sought-after "come-hither" look.
This is the "year of the brow." Not bushy, as a teenage Brooke Shields in Endless Love, but more sophisticated and manicured. I recall a friend telling me long ago that "women should keep the shade they were born with; natural colors are best." My friend's advice was correct. I only tweeze stray hairs between my brows or unruly ones on the browbone. Use a pencil in the same shade as your brows, utilizing tiny, short strokes to fill in any sparse areas. A colorless brow groomer is important to me; if I want to truly give my small eyes a more "wide awake" appearance, I brush upward, and the difference is amazing.

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